In my continued exploration of all issues the color of mourning, I commissioned this black-corduroy go well with from Pommella (trousers) and Zizolfi (jacket) final yr.
The logic appeared sound: if black goes to work in tailoring, I’d constantly discovered it really works higher in additional informal supplies like tweed, wire or linen, slightly than effective worsted wool. (Exterior of black tie, in fact.)
The black tweed jacket I had from Jean-Manuel Moreau confirmed that: though it’s removed from a flexible, on a regular basis piece, that tweed (under) has been very nice to put on as an alternative choice to my extra widespread browns and greys.
I additionally had the precise instance of Gianluca himself – the proprietor of Pommella. He usually wears a black-cord go well with, with a boldly striped shirt and pop of handkerchief, as we featured and mentioned in the ‘ costume like’ article profiling him.
So I wasn’t simply going off a swatch – this was one thing I had seen made up, and appreciated – and it was consistent with earlier experiences. And but I’ve discovered the go well with fairly troublesome to put on.
The very first thing that was established, early on, was that Gianluca’s specific mixture (above) doesn’t work effectively on me. Maybe it shouldn’t be shocking, given his totally different colouring and usually bolder fashion.
However much more muted colors of stripes proved tough. The pale lilac stripe that I take pleasure in carrying with the black tweed jacket (above), for instance, appeared bolder in opposition to a full black go well with. Clearly the totally different trousers had been doing one thing to melt the general influence.
Over a number of weeks I then tried all of the shirts that I had discovered labored pleasingly with the black tweed. They had been:
- Pink/lilac plains or stripes, as talked about
- Yellow plains or stripes
- Jeans and chambrays
- Cream (not white – too stark)
- Beige or khaki (eg this classic one)
- Darkish olive
- Gray or gray stripe
- Black (for occasions/night)
However with the wire go well with, the colors had the identical impact because the lilac, and cream wasn’t nice – once more cream with the black jacket was simpler as a result of there was one other color within the mixture, within the trousers.
Beige and olive weren’t unhealthy, however the one mixture I actually appreciated was the go well with with a denim or chambray shirt.
Even with these shirts, particular variations had been higher than others. Extra muted and lighter ones labored effectively, greater than one thing like a Bryceland’s sawtooth. We’re speaking small variations, however that blue felt too robust.
The sunshine-denim western shirt proven right here, a darkish washed-out linen, my outdated favorite from Al Bazar or a PS Lighter On a regular basis Denim – all of those had been good.
The thicker western shirt supplies extra visible curiosity, which is useful should you’re carrying a go well with with no sample and no different actual equipment.
The shirt is an outdated one from Area of interest, through No Man Walks Alone. It’s a very good color and wash, and I feel it’s a very good look by itself with only a pair of tailor-made trousers – a very good excessive/low mixture. The fashion isn’t onerous to search out, through Polo or Purple Label for instance.
I do favor less-artificial fading in denim as of late, nonetheless. I feel it’s a results of spending extra time with pure fades on classic denims, on new denims like my Rubato, or on denim shirts just like the Bryceland’s. They’ve extra authenticity, but additionally extra character and depth.
Sadly you’ll be able to’t get naturally light mid-blue denim until one thing has been worn and washed dozens of instances, so more often than not these synthetic washes are the one possibility. Or a classic one, if yow will discover it.
The go well with itself is effectively executed. I haven’t executed close-ups or fit-comparison photographs, simply because they’re the identical as my earlier Zizolfi and Pommella items – see full articles on them at these hyperlinks.
The one change right here was that I requested for the Zizolfi jacket to be made with no padding no matter within the shoulder, and admittedly it made no distinction to the match, just a bit one to the lightness.
I additionally went with black-corozo buttons on the jacket, pondering it could be good for them to be as delicate as potential. However in actuality, I feel the shine of corozo seems to be a little bit plasticky, and also you don’t get the great lined texture of corozo in a color this darkish. It’s particularly harmful with black clothes to have something shiny on it, as it may simply look low cost.
So I’ll swap these sooner or later – both for a black unpolished horn, or a dark-brown one. I’ll put each on the material and see which I favor. Each might add some good depth and curiosity.
I do assume black corduroy is a pleasant tailoring possibility for somebody that desires the informality of wire however desires to get as distant as potential from its generally old school associations.
I really like darkish brown wire, darkish olive, caramel and others – you’ll be able to see lots of my commissions on this text wanting on the materials in depth. However I perceive why they will really feel too rustic for some folks, and black is unquestionably not that.
In case you’re after a black go well with, this additionally, in all probability, is likely one of the best methods to do it. I’ve simply discovered it a tough one to mix. A step much less versatile nonetheless than the black-tweed jacket. Not everybody’s after versatility, however if you’re, I wouldn’t advocate this one.
Different garments worn:
- Piccadilly loafers from Edward Inexperienced
- Reverso from Jaeger-LeCoultre with black alligator strap
Present costs:
- Zizolfi jackets begin at €3000 and fits ¢3600
- Bespoke Pommella trousers begin at €850
Each Pommella and Zizolfi plan to be again within the UK in September
