Belief Bulgari to kick off excessive jewelry season in essentially the most epic method. Held in Venice on the extraordinary Palazzo Ducale, the two-night extravaganza noticed the great and glamorous flock to the Floating Metropolis to rejoice the home’s new Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment. And for over 40 years, one exceptional lady has been accountable for realising the Roman jeweller’s fantastical creations: Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s Jewelry Inventive Director. Recent off the home’s magnificent exhibiting, we sit down with Silvestri to debate the Mediterranea excessive jewelry assortment, her favorite items from the gathering and her upcoming adventures.
The theme of this yr’s excessive jewelry assortment is Mediterranea. I needed to ask you in case you have a particular reminiscence you like that’s related to the Mediterranean.
I’ve so many reminiscences concerning the Mediterranean, from Rome to Sicily to Greece, to Africa. It’s a journey, and I beloved this theme from the start, as a result of it’s a journey. And all of the locations that impressed me, I’ve been there many occasions, ranging from Rome and Naples, Palermo, Greece, so it’s very inspiring.
How would you describe the spirit of this excessive jewelry assortment?
It’s a mixture of cultures. We’ve got a whole lot of international locations across the Mediterranean, and it’s actually a mixture of cultures. So as an example, and that is an instance of among the finest combos [NB: see photo below] — after I began to consider this necklace, I began with mandarin garnets that jogged my memory of the deserts of Morocco, and the flavour and spices of Morocco. I assumed that it may very well be the suitable mixture — this very sparkly, heat [stone], filled with solar and fiery color — with one thing extra delicate, and on this case, we use citrines.
It’s the primary time that we used mandarin garnets and citrines collectively in excessive jewelry — it’s a brand new mixture. Yearly, we now have a brand new mixture, and this yr, that is one in every of these new combos. The concept could be very a lot Morocco: its desert, dunes and spices. And right here, there may be Venice, with the home windows — the motif is from Venice — so that is actually a mixture between two cultures. I like the concept of this mixture and the craftsmanship. It’s actually superb. It’s a chunk of artwork.
It’s great. You may take a look at it from the entrance and the again.
I find it irresistible, that is my favorite necklace. I began from the gems: I purchased the gems one after the other, after which we reduce them in an ideal method, in a Bulgari method. Now, it’s our masterpiece.
My subsequent query additionally pertains to gem stones, since you’ve all the time stated that gem stones are all the time the centre of your concepts. What had been a few of your favorite gem stones to work inside this assortment?
This assortment? It’s very tough… I really like this one [NB: see photo below] as a result of it has greater than 200 carats of emeralds and I really like this one particularly as a result of I adopted the chopping of the gem. Initially, after I noticed the gem, it was not polished, not reduce, and I mentioned with the proprietor of the gem as a result of I noticed a sugarloaf and he was excited about a faceted stone. So I attempted to persuade them that for Bulgari, one of the simplest ways to make use of the gem was making it a sugarloaf, and ultimately, I satisfied him that this was one of the simplest ways, with these very easy corners. It’s not sharp, it is vitally female, very light, and so we may take into consideration a really light, elegant necklace. And it’s versatile, so you may put on it with out the emerald or the pearls, or collectively.
Extremely transformable as properly. What’s your favorite piece in the entire assortment?
It’s tough, however I really like this one [NB: See below].
Due to all of the combos of the mandarin garnets and every thing?
Sure, as a result of the inspiration was so distinctive.
And what was essentially the most difficult piece to make on this assortment?
Each piece could be very difficult [laughs]. We wish to have a problem from the craftsmanship, from the artistic viewpoint. The Serpenti could be very difficult, as a result of the craftsmanship evolves yearly, and yearly it will get higher. So, every thing is a problem.
I’m certain you’ve travelled to Venice many occasions. What are a few of your favorite locations to go to in Venice?
The Palazzo Ducale is mostly a shock for me. I’ve seen the Palazzo Ducale many occasions, however yesterday and the day earlier than yesterday, that room [NB: the Sala dello Scrutinio] was superb, so inspiring. That was my first time, so I used to be trying on the ceiling and I dreamed about new necklaces, new rings and new earrings and an entire assortment in a single night time.
So we’d see a set impressed by Venice sooner or later?
My inspiration comes from travelling. Venice is one place [that inspires me], and, after all, Rome. I can not neglect that Rome is all the time our first supply of inspiration.
I’m all the time very struck by your very tactile method in relation to designing. Once I was watching Contained in the Dream final yr, I noticed that you simply picked up the gems, you performed round with it, combined and matched them. I’m very to know, why do you continue to do what you do? Why are you continue to impressed to maintain designing?
As a result of I really like what I do. It’s not likely a job, it’s a ardour — and I really feel that you may really feel the fervour behind our jewelry. We proceed to do it with a terrific ardour, not solely due to me, however as a result of our staff — and all of the groups round me — are passionate. From artisans, to designers, to the patrons, we do it with pleasure. We benefit from the vitality of the gems, and we can not neglect that we’re working with a present from nature. This present makes me pleased, so I’m pleased to work each time. I don’t work, I play.
And for my final query: you journey a lot. So the place are you off to subsequent? What shall be your subsequent journey?
My subsequent journey isn’t actually an journey, however I’m visiting Japan due to the excessive jewelry presentation there. I really like Japan.
This text first appeared on Grazia Singapore.
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