Why Japanese Mentaiko Is Getting In style in America


“I dumped my date to eat mentaiko,” reads a throw pillow on the Amazon search web page. If upholstered encomiums to fish eggs aren’t your model, the location has 165 different (principally) edible iterations of the stuff.

Consider karashi mentaiko, or sacs of salted cod roe which were marinated in powdered chiles and spices, as caviar’s Japanese cousin. Spicy and mildly fishy, it has lurked flirtatiously on restaurant menus and in worldwide snack aisles for the final decade. However now, due to a mixture of things, together with the latest proliferation of wafu eating places across the nation, mentaiko is now extra recognizable than ever in America’s collective consciousness. Its title interprets to “youngsters of the cod” in English, which brings a sure Stephen King novel to thoughts. On this case, be very frightened of how a lot you’re going to like mentaiko, as a result of it’s about to be in all places.

In a way, mentaiko descends from an extended lineage of oceanic scorching lady meals. Its taste is extra of an accent than an avalanche: Not like tinned sardines or anchovies, mentaiko exudes a quiet brininess. Its slight salinity offers it extra in widespread with kombu or wafer-thin bonito flakes than a forkful of StarKist straight from the can, whereas its creamy profile lends it a textural similarity to uni or avocado. Each pinch of mentaiko is a sensory universe, one rife with the fifth style and missing the clean-up that usually accompanies watery cans of tuna or fishy oil splatters. Your kitchen counter, alongside together with your tastebuds, will thanks.

Mentaiko’s origins return to Fifteenth-century Korea, the place it was referred to as myeongnanjeot. It made its method to Japan within the mid-Forties with Japanese residents who have been repatriated after Japan’s occupation of Korea. After World Warfare II, Kawahara Toshio, a Japanese businessman returning to Fukuoka, Japan from Busan, modified the recipe to swimsuit Japanese palates by substituting components like togarashi for gochugaru, creating mentaiko. Toshio’s manufacturing unit constructing nonetheless stands as a specialty meals market, and Fukuoka has since turn out to be referred to as the mentaiko capital of the world; it even has its personal mentaiko mascot that’s equal elements lovable and nightmare gasoline.

In Japan, mentaiko is historically paired with white rice, eaten in sushi, or on ochazuke. Within the U.S., it’s most recognizable at dim sum parlors, the place it typically garnishes trays of shu mai like a rooster’s fiery crest. Or possibly you’ve seen it in a Studio Ghibli anime, dolloped over bowls of rice with dramatic wisps of steam. You’re nearly assured to seek out some rendition of it in Korean and Japanese bakeries, the place it’s slathered onto smoky yakitori, plopped atop scorching canines, or encased in fluffy milk buns. A lot of this cross-cultural fare mirrors the creations you’ll discover in wafu cafes throughout East Asia.

Though Asian grocery store chains like Mitsuwa Market and H Mart have been stocking mentaiko and tarako (the unspiced model of cured cod roe) for the reason that mid-Nineties, it was purchased nearly solely by Japanese and Korean house cooks. Its gradual, extra widespread adoption was kicked off by the ramen increase of the early 2000s. “Ever since ramen grew to become extra mainstream within the U.S., I began seeing extra mentaiko on restaurant menus,” says Naoko Takei Moore, the Los Angeles-based creator of Donabe: Traditional and Fashionable Japanese Clay Pot Cooking and the proprietor of Toiro Kitchen. She provides that its recognition on menus appears to have grown during the last 5 years specifically.

Within the meals media cinematic universe, mentaiko first made the rounds over a decade in the past. In 2011, Niki Nakayama put it on the menu at n/naka, her two-Michelin-star Los Angeles restaurant, catapulting it to nearly in a single day fame. A few years later, the mentaiko udon served at Mott Avenue in Chicago impressed house cooks to make their very own model of the kimchi-flecked dish, which was harking back to wafu pasta. That dish has its personal prolonged historical past: It’s believed to have first been concocted within the Nineteen Sixties at a Shibuya hang-out referred to as Kabé No Ana (actually “gap within the wall”) when an orchestra musician introduced again caviar from Europe; mentaiko was subsequently used as an accessible various to caviar.

Mentaiko has since proven up at a burgeoning variety of Japanese-Italian spots throughout the nation. At Nonono in New York Metropolis, chef Daichi Tokuda now serves mentaiko udon with slabs of pork stomach and nuggets of enoki mushrooms suspended in a creamsicle-orange sauce, completed with perilla leaves. At Kimika, chef Christine Lau slings crispy German butterball potatoes with mentaiko mayo. In Washington, D.C., chef Katsuya Fukushima of Tonari showers Detroit-style pizza with corn and mentaiko, and brick cheese. And it’s nonetheless on the menu at n/naka, the place Nakayama consists of it in her trendy tackle kaiseki, a conventional multicourse Japanese dinner. Her mentaiko spaghettini, ready with shaved black truffle and abalone, is served because the shiizakana, or bigger course, and even has a number of Reddit threads devoted to it.

“Really, utilizing mentaiko to create a carbonara-like sauce has at all times been a type of dishes that basically is symbolic of what Japanese interpretations of pasta are like,” Nakayama says. “I wished to create a menu that was distinctive to my expertise and began to think about the depth of taste that squid ink has. I didn’t assume that individuals would gravitate in direction of the dish the way in which they’ve, and it’s now on our menu on a regular basis.”

Mentaiko’s recognition within the eating scene is matched by its rising visibility in grocery aisles and chain eating places: it’s now being co-opted by nearly each Japanese meals model desirous to money in on mentaiko mania. Kewpie, the model synonymous with Japanese mayonnaise within the U.S., sells a mentaiko model in its signature squeezable bottles, and Chester Cheetah could be seen on hot-pink luggage of Mentaiko Cheese Cheetos, flaunting mentaiko-speckled fingers (paws?). In 2020, McDonald’s Singapore bought a limited-edition salmon mentaiko burger, slicked with shiny, salmon-colored aioli. Final month, Domino’s Singapore launched restricted version prawn pizza, cross-hatched with mentaiko mayo. You’ll be able to even discover mentaiko Pringles in elements of Asia.

Andrea Xu, the CEO of Umamicart, a preferred Asian grocery supply service, has famous an elevated demand for mentaiko and its avatars over the previous 12 months. “Mentaiko has at all times been accessible in brick-and-mortar Japanese markets and remains to be a uncommon discover in most brand-name supermarkets,” says Xu. “However over the previous 12 months, it’s been thrilling to see house cooks buy extra mentaiko from us than ever earlier than.”

Together with contemporary, frozen, jarred, and tubed mentaiko, Asian specialty shops promote mentaiko-flavored immediate spaghetti sauce, sushi rolls, and mentaiko-stuffed onigiri, a staple Japanese breakfast. “I can completely see extra People beginning to embrace it of their buying lists,” says Takei Moore, who remembers receiving containers of neatly stacked mentaiko as souvenirs from Fukuoka when she was rising up in Japan. Together with mentaiko-filled onigiri, she additionally enjoys the cured roe with steamed yamaimo (mountain yam).

For her half, Nakayama believes that it’s attainable that mentaiko will obtain the mainstream recognition of tahini or fish sauce “as a result of it’s not overwhelmingly fishy and it’s tremendous versatile. Lots of people mistake it for grated cheese at our eating places.”

That stated, mentaiko’s potential attraction to house cooks is a bit sophisticated. The hesitation round dealing with uncooked fish merchandise, in addition to their shorter shelf life, would possibly clarify why mentaiko hasn’t fairly taken off the way in which Asian-origin components like chili oil, wasabi, gochujang, and furikake have within the U.S.

One other huge, if apparent, issue is mentaiko’s somatic type — the very thought of slicing right into a sac remains to be international to even adventurous house cooks within the West. Furthermore, its proximity to caviar, its high-brow sturgeon counterpart, invitations assumptions that will probably be equally rarefied. However the place caviar is often used as a garnish, mentaiko is a workhorse; its mutable traits permit it to do the whole lot a conserva can. Its extra humble nature can also be mirrored in its price ticket: Within the U.S., 4.5 ounces of Osetra caviar, a preferred selection, prices a mean of $308, whereas the identical quantity of mentaiko prices round $11.49.

“Caviar is in a totally totally different league,” says Takei Moore. “It’s been a logo of luxurious and a delicacy within the West for hundreds of years, so you may’t examine it with mentaiko.” What cooks like she and Nakayama are saying is, it’s mentaiko’s everyman attraction, coupled with its capacity to animate even essentially the most insipid meals — not its likeness to caviar — that make it value attempting.

It’s extra correct to match mentaiko to bottarga, particularly the type comprised of cod roe. Bottarga, microplaned into tangerine-colored mud, is an eidetic picture of mentaiko, and packs the identical contemporary seafood taste. However value-wise, mentaiko nonetheless emerges victorious towards its Sardinian doppelganger, which prices about $40 a pound.

Should you nonetheless want convincing to prepare dinner with mentaiko, its makes use of are restricted solely by your creativeness. Should you’re searching for a great, acquainted place to start out, strive pasta: mentaiko carbonara is a predestined communion between the eggs of the land and the ocean, harking back to spaghetti alla bottarga. Or, for those who’re holding onto the final summer time tomatoes like we’re, grate ripe ones right into a butter sauce with mentaiko for a chic, tangy-rich sauce that’s so comforting it could solely be described because the esculent counterpart of a onesie blanket (for those who say you haven’t thought of shopping for one in some unspecified time in the future, you’re mendacity). Or, hold it easy with an emulsion of butter and soy sauce, with non-obligatory however extremely inspired fistfuls of parmesan.

You would additionally take into account placing mentaiko on prime of your meals. Suppose spreadable cheese like ricotta or mascarpone smeared on toast, savory crepes, latkes, or corn fritters with a salty mentaiko topping. Combine a tablespoon of mentaiko into cream cheese for a crab dip-esque expertise, and eat it with the whole lot from crudites to potato chips. For an influence lunch, dollop a teaspoon of mentaiko over avocado toast with wisps of shredded nori.

It may well additionally do wonders for a salad. Mentaiko whisked into Caesar dressing makes a stellar stand-in for anchovies, and some tablespoons give Japanese potato salad a one-two punch, combining jammy yolks with the briny lusciousness of roe. You in all probability have already got all of the components readily available, besides the mentaiko. The mix of the pops of roe, punchy scallions, and candy Kewpie mayonnaise will make this an immediate traditional at your subsequent barbecue.

All of that stated, mentaiko can also be good by itself. Though Nakayama likes to fold it into scrambled eggs and hearty stews, her favourite method to take pleasure in mentaiko is with a sidecar of white rice; the warmth of the rice offers the mentaiko an nearly custardy texture. “There are limitless methods to make the most of mentaiko,” Nakayama says. “Loads of Japanese folks take pleasure in mixing it with mayonnaise, which is a superb place to start out.”

Should you’re trying to improve your social gathering sport, diversify your pantry, or add one other harbinger of umami to your kitchen, let mentaiko take the wheel. And in case you’re now questioning which sort of mentaiko you can purchase, effectively, till America’s McMentaiko second is in full swing, the reply is… no matter you may get your palms on. Like anchovies (or anchovy paste), every type is nice. Whether or not it’s frozen, contemporary, tubed, or jarred, somewhat goes a great distance.

Combine it right into a dip, paired with dry white wine, and listen to even the staunchest fishy-food detractors say, “What is that? It’s scrumptious!” However whether or not you wish to disclose your secret ingredient is completely as much as you.

Mehr Singh is a meals and tradition reporter based mostly in New York. Her work seems in Bon Appétit, Food52, MR Journal, and different publications.



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